Tinner666 Roofing Photo Gallery
A bit of Metal Detail and Shingle Ridge Vent Detail

The chimney itself needs work, but it wasn't in the specs.The panel in front was boxed and left1/4" shy of the chimney. I put a small apron over the boxed end that extends down the roof about 4". No soldering involved. The side panels only go as far as the top corners of the chimney.  Enough metal was allowed there to do a flat-lock on the deck. The side of the panel was then folded and double-locked with the backpan to form the vertical part of the corner. The flat-lock was soldered. The pan behind the chimney has a locking strip soldered to it that was flat-locked into the panels that reached the ridge. It was not soldered. The upper edge of the pan was hemmed over.

 NOW, look again. That chimney sure seems to fit with the panels. Right? The side panels were installed FIRST. Why? This eliminated any and all joints at the bottom corners. No joints, no solder. Just a straight run down the roof for the water. A policy on all my jobs.

Another view of the same chimney.

I thought I would do a short roof ridge vent demo. The slot has been cut, the Cobra Vent has been rolled out as far as the first piece would go. The cap have been started. They're a double layer.

You can see how the shingles terminate.

A closer look. Notice the shingles are nailed all the way out to the rakeboard. Only 4 nails in the top course of shingles, 6 everywhere else. The top will get many more as the cap go on. It's best to stop cutting the slot on the last available rafter so both ends of the last board are nailed. And the shingles will follow the vent contour. To run the Vent all the way to the gable without leaks, DON'T cut the tops off the end shingles. That way, the ends are arched up for a foot o so to prevent rain being blown into a gap under the ridge vent.

Here's a close-up of the double layer of cap. I staggered the layer a bit to give it another dimension. A note: I always check the last 10-12 courses of cap to see where they will stop in relation to the very end of the run. You want that last cap to land about 2" to 4" from the end! This allows us to turn the next one around, cut 2-4" off it's top and nail it solidly to the deck. AND this gives us a sealer strip for BOTH edges of the 'cover-cap.

As you can see, I only need 2 nails for the cover cap instead of 4. To me, any exposed penetration has the potential to leak. I just cut my potential leaks by half, and both edges of the cover piece are